Oxford - Remember to Look up

First rule of tourism in Oxford:  remember to look up.

 You never know who is watching...

View these on our stroll through Oxford on www.obelisktours.co.uk

London - Queen Victoria's Jubilee

 In 1897, to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee a special service was held in her honour on the steps of the western front of St Paul's Cathedral.  If you look at the bottom of the stairway you will see a commemoration of the event carved in the pavement beneath your feet.

The Queen arrived in a carriage pulled by eight cream horses and seventeen other carriages carried Royal families from around the world and other VIPS.  They were greeted here by a mass of people including a large orchestra, choir, 100 Anglican bishops and beefeaters from the Tower. 

Since the Queen was very frail (she was 78) she remained in her carriage for an out of doors ceremony.

The Queen wrote in her journal,  “The streets were beautifully decorated, also the balconies of the houses, with flowers, flags and draperies of every hue….  A never to be forgotten day.  No one ever, I believe, has met with such an ovation as was given to me, passing through those 6 miles of streets…The crowds were quite indescribable and their enthusiasm truly marvellous and deeply touching.  The cheering was quite deafening and every face seemed to be filled with joy.”

A London journalist recorded:

“It was a magnificent and picturesque sight.  The bright uniforms, the arms gleaming in the sunshine, the spirit–stirring strains of the martial music; the dark-visaged soldiers form Asia and Africa, representing and symbolising the world-wide Empire… And what a crowd it was!  The Queen herself has never looked upon such a sight.”

Similar services were held for the Silver Jubilee of King George V (1935), and Queen Elizabeth II’s Silver (1977), Golden (2002) and Diamond (2012) Jubliees although all of those services were held inside the Cathedral.

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Oxford - Thomas Cranmer

You may recall in a previous post about Oxford we witnessed Nicholas Ridley and Hugh Latimer being burned at the stake for their religious convictions.  Thomas Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury, was also imprisoned in Oxford at the same time with a similar death sentance hanging over his head, and was forced to witness their deaths.  The pressure of this caused him to waver and recant from his convictions.  He signed about six documents denying his faith, repenting of his 'heresy' and pleading forgiveness from Queen Mary and the Pope.  Regardless of his apparent change of heart and  pleas he was still sentanced to die.

Martyrs' Memorial - Oxford

On Saturday 21 March 1556, St. Mary's Church  in Oxford became the site for his official public repentance before his death.

A carefully crafted speech had been written for Cranmer to deliver.    He was then called upon to

perform that now which you promised; namely, that you would openly make a true profession of your faith, that all men may understand thay you are catholic indeed. (Foxe, p. 323)

Cranmer then addresssed the congregation at length.  All seemed to be progressing nicely when suddenly he went off script.

And now I come to what troubleth my conscience more than anything that ever I did or said in my life, and that is, the setting abroad of a writing contrary to the truth, which now here I renounce and refuse, as written with my hand indeed, but contrary to what I thought in my heart, and written for fear of death, and to save my life, if it might be; all such papers which I have written or signed since my degradation I renounce as untrue.  And forasmuch as my hand hath offened, it shall first be punished, for when I come to the fire it shall be first burned.

And as for the Pope, I refuse him, with all his false doctrine, as Christ's enemy and as antichrist. (Foxe, p. 326)

He was dragged from the pulpit, taken to same spot where Ridley and Latimer died and was tied to a stake.

x marks the spot - Oxford

As the flames were lit beneath him Cranmer held out his right hand towards the fire. Since it was his right hand that had previously signed the documents to renounce his convictions he felt it appropriate that should burn first.  He declared:

This unworthy right hand!  Lord Jesus, receive my spirit.

Sources
Foxe, John.  Foxes' Book of Martyrs

London - Queen Anne

The statue of Queen Anne (1665-1714) was placed here in 1712 to commemorate the completion of the Cathedral. The sculptor, Francis Bird (1667-1731) also sculpted the reliefs around the cathedral’s doorway. 

 Queen Anne with a crown on her head and the Order of St George around her neck is shown quite regally holding the royal sceptre and orb.  She is surrounded by four female figures representing England, Ireland, France and America over which she then ruled:

England is shown as Britannia complete with royal arms, trident and breastplate.  France has a helmet with fleurs-de-lis and armed with a truncheon.  America has a feathered head dress and skirt, and is armed with bow and arrows.  Note her foot rests on a severed head with a lizard looking on.  Ireland needs a new shirt, but instead of a weapon has a harp.

Some historians consider Queen Anne a weak monarch, but the fact that her reign was both stable and prosperous leaves room for discussion.  Still she was known to enjoy the bottle and a contemporary said  “it was fitting she was depicted with her rump to the church, gazing longingly into a wineshop.”  A rhyme soon followed the erection of this statue:

“Brandy nan, brandy nan, now you’re left in the lurch,

Your face to the ginshop, your back to the church.”

The original (1712) marble statue had been attacked on three occasions by “lunatics” (1743,1768 and 1882) and finally a sculptor proposed “Your Queen Anne has lost many fingers and fragments you had better let me make another copy.” The original along with the four lady attendants was removed in 1884 and ended up in the gardens of Augustus J C Hare in Holmhurst, Sussex where it is now in a bad state of repair.  Anne has lost her arms, Ireland has lost her harp, France is beheaded, and America is worse for wear.  The statue we see today is an 1886 stone copy of the original.

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Oxford Martyrs

Oxford is a stunning place to walk around.  The architecture, the gardens, the layout, and the history just ooze from everywhere.  You cannot help but sense a thousand years of scholars, friars, puritans, kings, queens, politicians, poets, clergy, and scientists all leaving their mark on the city, the country and the world.

This city has got to be right up there for a place that has layers (stealing a thought from that great academic Shrek).  On its basic layer you can quite happily explore without knowing any of its history or its famous occupants.  The sights and sounds are captivating.   I could take you on a walk through Oxford's streets and alleys without saying a word to you, and I think you'd be quite satisfied at the end of our ramble.

But on another layer are the names of those who have studied and worked and lived here.  Every building seems to have a wonderful story to tell.  This is like watching the Who's Who of British and world history come to life.   Take this list for starters:  C.S. Lewis, Samuel Johnson, Bill Clinton, Christopher Wren, Oscar Wilde, John Wyclif, Reverend Spooner, Lewis Carroll, William Gladstone, John Ruskin, Cecil Rhodes, John Betjeman, J.R.R. Tolkien, Sir Richard Burton, Charles I, Margaret Thatcher, John Wesley....  The list goes on and on, but this gives you a good taster.

Out of all of these there is one story that sticks out to me; that of the Oxford Martyrs.

The Martyr's Memorial, Oxford

This memorial commemorates the brutal deaths of three men: Thomas Cranmer, Hugh Latimer and Nicholas Ridley.

Thomas Cranmer (1489-1556) was Archbishop of Canterbury.
Hugh Latimer (1485-1555)   was Bishop of Worcester
Nicholas Ridley (1500-1555  was Bishop of London.

There is a lot more to their stories than what I share here, but in a quick summary....

• King Henry VIII broke from Rome and the Church of England is founded.  Cranmer, Ridley and Latimer all agreed with this reforming of the church.
• King Henry died leaving his son Edward to reign.  Edward maintained the reformation, so no problems for our trio
• 1554 - King Edward died leaving his half-sister Mary to reign.  BIG problems.  Mary moved allegiance back to Catholicism and Rome rule.  Mary arrested Cranmer, Latimer and Ridley.
• 1555 - After six months imprisonment in the Tower of London, all three were taken to Oxford for a pubic 'disputation' which was really a show trial.

They refused to accept the Pope's rule over them, were accused of heresy and excommunicated.
16th October 1555 -  Latimer and Ridley were taken to Broad Street in Oxford to be burnt at the stake.  Due to his more prestigious position Archbishop Cranmer remained a prisoner waiting for word from Rome about his fate.

X marks the Spot.  The place of the martyrs' deaths.

Today Broad street has a stone 'x' in the road  to mark the spot of the stake where Ridley and Latimer were tied.  Ridley turned to Latimer and said:

Be of good heart, brother, for God will assuage the fury of the flame, or else strengthen us to abide it.  (Foxe, p. 304)

As the fire was lit beneath them Latimer shared these words:

Be of good comfort, Mr. Ridley, and play the man; we shall this day light such a candle by God's grace in England as I trust never shall be put out. (Foxe, p. 307) 

And that candle has never been put out.  Ridley and Latimer and many others like them met horrific deaths, but in the grand scheme of things their example inspired and motivated generation after generation to speak out, to stand true, to follow their heart.

It would be wrong to think such intolerance was just a 'Catholic' thing or a 'Mary' thing.  Protestants were just as guilty of condemning people and imprisoning or killing them, but Mary's was such a violent purging that it stuck out in British history.

This Oxford Martyr story does not end with the death of Latimer and Ridley.  Cranmer's life was still under threat, but that story will have to wait for another day.

Follow in the footsteps of great men like these in our Oxfords Noble and Great Ones - tour 3 on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Sources
Parry, Malanie Ed.  Chambers Biographical Dictionary.  Edinburgh, 1997.
Foxe, John.  Foxes' Book of Martyrs
Neilson, G. A.  Twelve Reformation Heroes.  Ambassador, Belfast,

London - Stationer's Hall

Hidden away in a pleasing, quiet courtyard stands the impressive Stationer's Hall.

This ancient building (built 1670-1672) is home to The Worshipful Company of Stationer's and Newspaper Makers founded in 1402 and incorporated by Royal Charter in 1557.   Many manuscript writers and illuminators located themselves around St Paul’s since so many publications were religious in nature.  In fact the company’s motto is “The Word of the Lord endures forever”  (Verbum Domini manet in aeternum). 

In 1606 the Stationer’s Company located itself here to allow easy access to and control of its membership.   Guild members could bring their work to the Hall and register it in the “book of copies” which legally protected their right to publish.  Thus the term “copyright” came into being.

The Stationer's Guild had extensive rights to check all works for seditious or heretical material.  Any objectionable books were burned in another courtyard behind the Hall.  Ironically, the Stationer's had to sanction themselves when in 1632 they allowed the printing of what has since been nicknamed the 'wicked Bible', because the seventh commandment mistakenly read 'Thou shalt commit adultery'!!

Book burning gradually became a thing of the past, but right up till 1911 the Stationers still controlled the printing and publishing trades.  Every book published in Great Britain had to be registered for copyright here, and the phrase 'Entered in Stationers Hall' would be printed in the front of every book so registered. 

“The technology may have changed from pen and inks to print and on-line links”, but the Company is as busy as ever bringing major players from across the industry together. 

The first hall was destroyed during the great fire of 1666, so this is the second hall to stand on this site.  Behind the hall is an old warehouse for the Stationer’s to store publications – an unusual addition for a livery company.  

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Oxford's Frustrating Doors

I recently had the chance to visit Oxford again and was reminded how frustrating I find that city.  Don't get me wrong, I adore the place - its history and its architecture just hook me every time I visit, but a nosey person like me tends to feel thwarted and blocked at every corner.  You see... there are inviting doors and alleyways like these:

There is loads to explore, but the problem is too many of them say ghastly, horrible things like 'Private', or 'Closed to Visitors' or 'Residents only'. 

Signs like that make it even worse for nosey folk like me.  That just makes me want to discover even more.

I get a sense that the joy I get from seeing the external beauty of the place is just a mere scratch on the surface of what I could see if I could get behind closed doors.  Can you imagine the paintings, the furniture, the stories, the gardens, all just sitting there waiting to be discovered.

Maybe one day someone will phone me and announce that I have a key to the city of Oxford with the freedom to wander at will.  No porters to stop me, no door I cannot walk through.  Anyone?  Anyone?

Oh well.

In the meantime, why not join me to discover all the nooks and crannies of this wonderful place that we are allowed to see.  Our tour app helps you understand the university, and discover its famous people and places.  Take a visit to www.obelisktours.co.uk  Our doors are always open 24/7.

London - Sheep and Shepherd

The statue of the shepherd and sheep called ‘Paternoster’ by Elisabeth Frink (1975) is a reminder of the days when live sheep and cattle would be brought here to the Newgate Meat Market.  It was a filthy, crowded, and smelly place.  The opening of the new Smithfield market buildings in 1868 saw the closure of this traffic congested, eyesore. 

The statue was unveiled by the accomplished violinist and conductor Yehudi Menuhin (1916-1999).

The statue was part of the previous 1960s office development of Paternoster Square.  While that was being torn down the sheep found a new temporary home outside the Museum of London before being herded back here to Paternoster Square in 2003.  

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk