Tuesday 30 December 2014

London - Paternoster Square

Pater noster is latin for “our Father” and is a reminder of the religious influence in this area. 

A number of publishers were located here until World War Two when this area was devastated by German bombs in December 1940 and millions of books were destroyed.  The Blitzed area was extensive but Londoners took great pride that even though St Paul’s did take two direct hits (1840 and 1841) it remained intact.   In the 1960s rather bland offices were built, but were mostly vacant within a decade, and finally this more sympathetic office development arose after 1995. 

Today the financial heartbeat of the city can be felt here since companies like the London Stock Exchange Group, and Merrrill Lynch have all relocated here.   

Stocks were originally bought and sold in the City’s coffee houses and the Royal Exchange (1571), but the first regulated exchange did not appear until 1801.    In 1923 the Exchange was honoured with its own coat of arms with the motto: “My word is my Bond”  (Dictum Meum Pactum).  Digital trading has seen the demise of the open outcry system where traders shouted and gestured in a pandemonium of bewildering, organised chaos.   Less space was needed and in 2004 the decision was made to move here.


Today some of the world’s largest companies have their stocks regulated from here – there are 2,938 companies from over 60 countries.   Their total market value is £3.9 trillion.  Every day over 600,000 stocks are traded which equates to about £4.4 billion daily. 

The Paternoster Column is made from Portland stone, Cornish granite and a gilded copper urn.   It was made to look like columns made by Inigo Jones for the old St Paul’s which Christopher Wren also copied in the new St Paul’s.  

The column cleverly conceals the fact that this is actually part of a ventilation system for the underground car park.   At night time fibre optic cables running up the column bring a flash of light to the square.   The urn on top is a historical reminder that this area has been destroyed by fire twice – in 1666 and 1940.  

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Thursday 25 December 2014

Lancaster - Three not-so-Wise Men!

Lancaster's Catholic Cathedral has a trio of surprising characters.

First up is Henry VIII.  You'd hardly expect the King who broke the ties with Rome to be featured in a Catholic stained glass window, but there he is.   The reason he's there is because of his connection with some of the Catholic martyrs who suffered under his leadership.  So, from a Catholic viewpoint, this is one monarch whose judgement would be called into question.

Second is a statue of Judas Iscariot - the traitor who betrayed the Saviour.  You can see him in the middle of this scene pointing to Jesus.

And finally, is King Herod - he who slaughtered the innocent children in the hopes that he would kill the baby Jesus.  He is the figure on the left with his foot on a baby.


This stained glass is placed at the entrance to the baptistry - a place for innocence and rebirth.   That is the only time I've personally seem him represented in a church before.

If you fancy a tour of the Cathedral or the religious heritage of Lancaster just let us know.  There is so much to see all around the city.   The city will feature in a series of tours for apps in 2015.
 View www.obelisktours.co.uk to find out more.

Tuesday 23 December 2014

London - Temple Bar

The grand gateway of Temple Bar was not built for this location, but, since it was also designed by Christopher Wren it is most appropriate that it ended up here looking across to St Paul’s. 

Originally Temple Bar was built on the site of one of the City’s eight gateways.  It was located where Fleet Street and The Strand meet, so was on the main route towards Westminster.  Records show a bar (probably a chain) being mentioned on that site as early as 1293, and the word ‘Temple’ indicated its neighbour is the Temple law courts.   The bar was replaced with a timber gateway and then this stone structure.

For over four centuries it has been a tradition that the Monarch stops at Temple Bar to gain ‘permission’ to enter the City.  This might seem rather odd, but indicates how Kings and Queens had respect for the powerful merchants of London whose deep pockets might be called upon to support a campaign or war.   It was a wise political move to keep London’s financial power on your side.  

Likewise, the gateway’s royal statues demonstrated the City’s desire to be loyal to their monarch.   The original statues still exist depicting the husband and wife of King James I and Queen Anne of Denmark, their son Charles I and his son Charles II.  In essence, a three generation photo album.  The royal beasts and coats of arms are modern replacements for lost statues.

This gateway, like other London entrances, would impress and scare visitors.  Impress with the fine carvings of Monarchs, and scare by the impaled heads of traitors which were displayed on spikes on top.  The last heads put on here were in 1746. 

As Victorian traffic increased it became a bit of a bottleneck, so it was taken down in 1878 and purchased for use as a grand gateway into the private country estate of Sir Henry Meux near Enfield, Hertfordshire.  
 126 years later (2004) it returned to the city and was erected here.  The Lord Mayor of London along with 14 stone masons pushed open the gates of Temple Bar (weighing 1.2 tons each) and Temple Bar was once again open to London traffic… well, foot traffic.  

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

282 years old today!

Richard Arkwright was born in Preston on the 23 December 1732 and became one of the most important figures in the industrialisation of Britain.   He was the youngest of thirteen children, and for a while he lived in this house located in Stoneygate in Preston


Arkwright House, Preston
Behind the tree!
I like the following descriptions of him.  The writer/ historian Thomas Carlyle (1795-1881) wrote:
“Richard Arkwright, it would seem, was not a beautiful man, no romance hero with haughty eyes, Apollo lip and gesture like the herald Mercury; a plain, almost gross, bag-cheeked, pot-bellied, Lancashire man, with an air of painful reflection, yet also of copious free digestion; a man stationed by the community to shave certain dusty beards in the northern parts of England, at a halfpenny each. .....Nevertheless, in strapping of razors, in lathering of dusty beards, and the contradictions and confusions attendant thereon, the man had nothings in that rough head of his; spindles, shuttles, wheels and contrivances plying ideally within the same.....His townsfolk rose in mob around him, for threatening to shorten labour, to shorten wages, - so that he had to fly, with broken wash-pots, scattered household, and seek refuge elsewhere. Nay, his wife, too, as I learn, rebelled; burned his wooden model of his spinning wheel, resolute that he should stick to his razors rather, for which however, he decisively, as thou wilt rejoice to understand, packed her out of doors. O reader, what a historical phenomenon is that bag-cheeked, pot-bellied, much enduring, much inventing barber!.....it was this man that had to give England the power of cotton.” (Hardwick, p 372)
R.S. Fitton (biographer) wrote of him:
The founder of the factory system, he was the creator of a new industrial society that transformed England from a nearly self-sufficient country with an economy based on agriculture and domestic manufacture, into the workshop of the world.” (Hunt 143)
And Arkwright certainly made a pretty penny out of the process. A 1785 newspaper reported:
It is remarkable that the great mechanic, Arkwright, was a barber and a few years ago shaved for a penny. His astonishing machine brought him one year a revenue of £70,000, and though he has lowered his prices to crush his rivals, his profits are yet between £40,000 and £50,000 a year. Universal Daily Register, January 1785
In today's money that would be equivalent to a revenue of £7 million and profits of £4 to 5 million plus. In a period of a few short years he shot to one of the world's wealthiest men. The brilliant Erasmus Darwin (1731-1802) described his inventions as having been productive of greater commercial advantages to this country, and contributed more to the general benefits of mankind in so short a period than any other single effort of human ingenuity. (Aspin, p. 5)

His impact on the industrial world was incredible. Others called the machines 'Stupendous' 'magick'. And it was not just a case of the machines being so much faster they also produced a thread that was "a many times stronger and leveller". This uniform quality of yarn made the weaving so much finer and sought after.

Anyway...happy birthday Richard.

Sunday 21 December 2014

London - Thomas the Becket

Today, 21 December, is the birthday of Thomas the Beckett.  

In 1973 this resin statue of Thomas the Becket (1118-1170) by Bainbridge Copnall was erected outside of St Paul's Cathedral.   The Archbishop is shown falling on the steps in Canterbury Cathedral after being slain by the knights who misunderstood the intent of King Henry II when he complained “will no one rid me of this turbulent priest.”   Although a contemporary biographer claims the king said, “what miserable drones and traitors have I nourished and brought up in my household, who let their lord be treated with such shameful contempt by a low-born cleric.”    The first one sounds better!


Becket was born just a few blocks away from here on Cheapside.  

Thursday 18 December 2014

Liverpool - Titanic

  

Even though the ill-fated Titanic never visited Liverpool it has many connections to the City.  First of its owners were the White Star Line whose main office was in this red and white striped building called Albion House or the White Star Building (built 1898).  The ship was registered here which resulted in the words Titanic, Liverpool being painted clearly on its stern. 

Most of the Titanic's crew were from Southampton, but there were Liverpool staff who lost their lives.    These included  John Thompson and Thomas Threlfall as Firemen,  Mr. Pallas as a Greaser,   Henry Ashe, William Carney, Thomas Hewett, Charles Hogg, Thomas Holland, Andrew Latimer, and Thomas Weatherston as stewards,  Elizabeth Leather and Sarah Stap as stewardess,  James Hutchinson as a Vegetable Cook ,  Charles Morgan as a storekeeper, Charles Proctor as a Chef and John Clarke as a Bassist.   Not surprisingly concerned family and friends gathered on the streets outside these offices to hear any news of their loved ones.   Officials read names of the deceased from the balcony.

In 1934 the White Star Line moved over the street to merge with the Cunard Line.  Cunard continued to use the expression White Star Service to highlight their commitment to high levels of customer care.  
   
In 2013 the building was purchased by Signature Living to turn it into a Hotel complete with a Titanic Pool and Spa and a roof top bar and restaurant with World Heritage Views.   You can stay in The Vault Cabin – the very room where the Titanic's plans and documents were stored,  The Lightoller Suite – named after a first class officer, The Molly Brown Quarters – after the unsinkable Molly Brown, The William Hartley Quarters – after the  famous Lancashire bandmaster who played on,  and The Guggenheim Quarters – named after the  Gentleman who returned to his quarters. 


There are many more Titanic connections plus a variety of other rooms named after other White Star Line ships. 

Engineer's Memorial 

When the Titanic struck an iceberg in April 1912 it sank with 1514 souls, and sent shockwaves around the world.  It was the 9/11 of its day, and a century later the tragedy still resonates with horror.  This monument was originally planned as a tribute to the 224 engineers of the Titanic, those often unsung heroes who work deep in the bowels of the ship.  Eventually its scope was broadened as a Memorial to all the Heroes of the Marine Engine Room who are lost at sea.   Admittedly for all those boarding their cruise ships here an Engineer's Memorial sounds less ominous than a Titanic Memorial. 

 When this was unveiled in 1916 it was a pioneering work as there was no British sculpture that recognised the contributions of the working class.




The four nude figures represent Earth, Air, Fire and Water.

Incidentally this was carved by William Goscombe John who also created the equestrian statue of  King Edward VII located in the middle of the Pier Head.
Around the monument you can see World War Two shrapnel damage from exploding bombs.
This is one of the many monuments and buildings to be found in the FREE tour of Liverpool Pier Head found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Tuesday 16 December 2014

London - YMCA Founders

Just opposite the entrance to St Paul's Cathedral, is a plaque commemorating that in 1844 twelve young men gathered inside Drapery House, the home of George Williams, and founded the Young Mens Christian Association on this site. Drapery house no longer exists.  

Initially the organisation began as a prayer and study group, but then focused on providing lectures, reading rooms and refreshments to help young men adjust to the demands of city life. 

The following year they established branches in Manchester and Leeds and by 1851 had stretched as far as Boston, USA.  Their national and international influence continued to grow and in 1873 opened their first YMCA holiday centre on the Isle of Wight.    Twenty five more holiday centres followed and were the inspiration for Billy Butlin’s holiday camps. 

This was followed by the opening of YMCA gyms in America where both basketball and volleyball were invented (1895).    The very first scout groups met in YMCA buildings.   In 1912 the first purpose built hostels began to appear.  It was a YMCA worker who first introduced the poppy as a symbol of remembrance. 

When George died in 1905, aged 83, the organisation had spread to 45 countries with some 707,000 members.  Today there are some 58 million members in 119 countries.  With the Queen as its patron they provide nearly 10,000 beds every night; they run nurseries, childcare, and youth clubs; put around 43,000 young people in training and education annually, counselling over 228,000;  and much, much more.    
Did those twelve men have any idea what they were about to start when they met here in 1844?

George was buried in the crypt of St. Paul’s Cathedral.

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Thursday 11 December 2014

Liverpool - The Liver Birds

The Liver Bird is a mythical creature, so any birdwatchers hoping to catch a glimpse of one will have a very long wait.  Historians often trace its lineage to a coat of arms made over 700 years ago which displayed the eagle of St. John the Evangelist.    So someone’s really bad drawing of an eagle evolved into a make believe bird that has become Liverpool's symbol. 

 The two enormous Liver Birds on top of the Royal Liver Friendly Society building are here because the Friendly Society adopted them as part of their company logo and this is their HQ.


 There are some funny local legends attached to these two birds.

The one looking out to sea is supposed to be female since she is waiting to see when the sailors are coming in.  The bird facing towards the City is male because he is waiting to see when the pubs will open.
   

There is also a legend that if an honest man or a virtuous woman ever walks besides the Liver building the Liver birds’ wings will flap.  They have yet to move.


It is also claimed that if they were to fly away the City of Liverpool would fall.  You will note they have been tied down to prevent them leaving… or are those just support lines?  You decide. 

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour Liverpool: Pier Head found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Tuesday 9 December 2014

London - Cathedral bombed

During the Blitz two bombs hit and detonated in St Paul's Cathedral – one in October 1940 and the other in April 1941.  Luckily another bomb in September 1940 was removed by bomb disposal experts.  When they detonated the bomb outside of London it left a 100 foot (30m) crater which would have had a devastating effect on the building.

In memory of the Londoners killed in the Blitz a memorial was installed inscribed with the words “Remember before God the people of London 1939-1945”.  On the top it states,

“In War resolution. In defeat defiance.  In victory magnanimity.  In peace goodwill.”


The monument is made from black limestone and if you look very, very closely you will find tiny grey fossils known as a sea lily.

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Monday 8 December 2014

Preston - The Age of Pericles

On the pediment of the Harris Museum in Preston is “The Age of Pericles” sculpted by Edwin Roscoe Millins (1848-1907)


Pericles, who is the central figures in this frieze, was an influential General, Statesman, Orator and Patron of the Arts.   The period he led Athens (4651 – 429 BC) is often referred to as the Age of Pericles.   The rest of the sculptures surrounding him are famous figures who all excelled in the fields Pericles promoted.

In order, from left to right, we have:
Historian: Thucydides       
Philosophers: Socrates, Zeno and Parmenides     
The Victor of the Games
Architect:  Ictinus          Famous for the Parthenon
Philosopher: Anaxagoras        
Pericles       “The first citizen of Athens”
Poet:  Pindar              
     
Sculptor, Painter, Architect:  Phidias                  
Chariot Horses
Playwrights: Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides 
  
Historian:  Herodotus          

The architecture of the whole building was designed to reflect a similar sentiment.  The architect James Hibbert (1882-1893) described it as “an endeavour to recall, uphold, and carry onward the tradition of Hellenic art.”  The building reflects a merging of ancient influences and modern buildings – a touch of Greece here, a bit of Roman Forum there, a sprinkle of the Berlin National theatre and a dash of Napoleon’s Tomb in Paris.   

Discover more buildings like these in the FREE tour of Preston Flag Market on www.obelisktours.co.uk

Thursday 4 December 2014

Liverpool - 5 Pier Head Memorials you must not miss

The Pier Head in Liverpool is full of memorials and these are the pick of the bunch.  Make sure you find them when you visit.   If you want to know the stories behind them you can download our FREE tour app of Liverpool Pier Head on www.obelisktours.co.uk  
"Waiting" by Judy Boyt

Cunard War Memorial by Arthur Davis

Memorial to Alfred Lewis Jones - Ship owner and Tropical medicine benefactor.


Merchant Navy War Memorial

The Engineers or 'Titanic'  Memorial 

Tuesday 2 December 2014

London - St Paul's Cathedral

The word Cathedral is from the Latin ‘cathedra’ meaning seat since this is where the Bishop’s seat or throne was placed.  This asserted his authority to act in the name of the Church in this area.  

A church dedicated to St. Paul’s has stood on this site for over 1,400 years!!

History maintains that King Ethelbert of Kent was the first English king to convert to Christianity.  It was his influence that began the foundations for Canterbury Cathedral and St Augustine’s Abbey, and helped open a doorway into pagan London for Mellitus – the first Bishop of London.  He founded St Paul’s in 604 AD.  We are not sure what those early buildings were like, but they served their purpose until William the Conqueror arrived to build a new church 483 years later.


In 1087 William’s chaplain, Bishop Maurice, began building a much grander home for Christian worship.  This cathedral grew and grew and by 1666 was huge – even dwarfing the current Cathedral.    The old cathedral was 75 feet (22.86m) longer and 124 feet (37.80m) higher than what we see today.   If you look in the pavement of the south churchyard you will find floor plans of the two cathedrals superimposed on each other. 

All these cathedrals, up to this point, were Catholic.  Then, when Henry VIII broke the religious connection with Rome, this became the property of the Church of England.   Catholic shrines, relics and images were destroyed mainly under the direction of London’s first Protestant Bishop, Nicholas Ridley.  He himself was destroyed a few years later when Queen Mary briefly returned England to Catholic rule, but when her sister Elizabeth came to the throne the Cathedral became Protestant again and has remained so ever since. 

The Great Fire                 
By the 1600s the grand medieval church was in a bad state of repair, and sometimes Londoners were quite careless with their treatment of this sacred space.  Traders with wagons and goods found it far more convenient to travel with their horses and beasts right through the old church rather than travelling all the way around, and merchants were known to trade in the thoroughfare.   Such negligence was threatening the very fabric of the building.

In 1633 Inigo Jones was commissioned to restore the cathedral, but improvements dried up during the days of the Republic, when Oliver Cromwell ruled.  The clergy were dismissed, and the building used as a barracks including stabling for hundreds of horses.  When the monarchy returned in 1660 King Charles II supported a pressing need for further renovation. 

Things needed to change, but no one was quite prepared for the impact of the Great Fire of London in 1666.  That year is one of those dates that just about every English school child will know.    It was a pivotal moment in the history of London.  It was not the first time that St. Paul’s had suffered from fire - flames destroyed it around 675 AD, again in 1087, and damaged it in 1133,  but this fire was very different.  Some 13,200 houses were destroyed and five-sixths of the City disappeared in flames.   Luckily only around six people are known to have died, but around 70 to 80,000 Londoners were made homeless overnight. 
In the fire’s wake, came the chance to re design and re think the City.   Some saw this as an opportunity to start the city anew with wide and straight avenues, grand promenades, and clear vistas. 

Clearly that did not happen as the homeless masses and displaced merchants could not wait around for some grand plan to materialise.  Landowners just went about rebuilding homes and businesses on the same sites along the same streets. 

Christopher Wren                         

The Great Fire provided Sir Christopher Wren (1632-1723) with a unique opportunity to build churches at an impressive rate.   Before the fire you would have seen a sea of 107 medieval churches just within the square mile of the city.  85 of those were destroyed.   34 of them were never rebuilt, but Wren was in charge of rebuilding the other 51. 

Where else could you be asked to rebuild 51 churches in such a short period of time – it would be every architect’s dream to be given such a clean slate. 

A special tax (1670) was placed on coal to provide funds for the rebuild – that tax remained in place for 47 years (1717).  A third was used for the churches, a third for St. Paul’s and a third for street developments.    
Wren often used the medieval foundations and surviving lower walls of the churches as his base, but what arose from them was something quite remarkable.  Each church had its own identity, and over the next sixteen years he was free to experiment with domes, towers, spires, steeples, fonts, pulpits and balconies.   He had an army of masons, carvers, blacksmiths, and ironworkers at his disposal.

Plus it allowed the more open plan approach of the Church of England to be imprinted on churches that had been very Catholic in their adopted building fabric.    Wren insisted that “all who are present can both hear and see” whereas the Catholic attitude had been content to “hear the Murmur of the Mass”.   

Today, due to world war bombings and ‘progress’ only 24 of Wren’s 51 churches survive, but they provide us with a great sense of his versatility and skill. 

As wonderful as these churches are, it is Wren’s work on St Paul’s that is his most lasting legacy. 

The Cathedral took thirty three years to complete (1675-1708), and Wren was able to see it through from start to finish.  He is buried in the south-east corner of St. Paul’s crypt.  His plain plaque declares,  “Reader, if you seek his monument – look around you.”  (Si monumentum requiris, circumspice.)

This is an excerpt from the FREE tour St Paul's Precincts found on www.obelisktours.co.uk